手工加工肉 (Charcuteries) – Page 2

自製醃肉及煙燻篇－煙肉及意大利咸肉 (HOMEMADE CURING AND SMOKING – Bacon and Pancetta)

Posted on November 29, 2015January 27, 2020 by 傑西

對不起，這麼久才能寫這篇文章，小編住離島很難買到所需食材，所以有時間才可以去買。

I’m so sorry that this is a very late post since I’m living in Outlying island, it’s not easy for me to go buy ingredients.

在這篇，小編也想回應早前世衛把加工肉類列為1級致癌物，大家不要被世衛所說而恐慌，他們所指的是工廠製造的加工肉類，小編之前也說過，工廠為保持肉類的美觀，會加入硝酸鹽、亞硝酸鹽和味增劑等人工化合物，在醃肉過程中，肉類的吸收及經過轉化後，就成為致癌的重要原數，所以我們自家製的，沒有加入這些人工化學劑的肉類，在醃製過程中，注意衛生、溫度、濕度及醃製份量，那麼食用就會安全的。其實自家製醃肉的過程，鹽及糖的作用是把肉類的水份排走，防止細菌滋生，香料則給味道而已。至於煙燻，一般用燒烤爐或室外煙燻爐是用炭把木材燃燒，才得到木材的獨特香味，在炭上烤肉，不加入木材煙燻，本已容易致癌，但小編介紹的煙燻是沒有炭的，只是在爐上加熱，把木材帶出其香味，而溫度亦比較直接煮食為低，所以讀者也是安全地製作肉類的。

In this post, I also wanna talk a bit about WHO’s just announced that processed meats caused cancer, however, don’t panic about this, WHO’s actually meant processed meats made in factory, as I mentioned in earlier post, factories make processed meats with sodium nitrites, nitrates and artificial flavouring, since when the cured meat occured, the meats will absorb and transform those chemicals with its protein and this is what caused cancer afterwards. On the other hand, our homemade processed meats without these chemicals, once you are careful while process the meat in temperature, humidity, hygiene and acidity, you should safety to enjoy it. Since we are just using salt and sugar to help the meat to get rid of water to prevent growth of bacteria and herbs just add natural flavouring for meats. For the smoking meats, generally will use grill stove or outdoor smoker and process smoking with coal and wood to get the flavour, but barbecue with coal, it will be caused the risk of cancer itself no matter added wood or not. Actually, the stove-top smoker that I’m used that without process with coal, just heat up the wood and get its smell, and, the cooking temperature is low compared with general direct cooking, so it’s safety as well.

豬肉是最常見的醃肉，例如：煙肉，豬肉腸等。如果讀者能夠買到無骨豬上脾，也可以做火腿的，但小編找了很久也沒有；還有做火腿需要買牛腸衣

The most popular curing pork are bacon and sausages. Of course, you can make ham as well, but I can’t find boneless pork leg, on the other hand, you have to buy beef casing in order to make ham.

先說煙肉及意大利咸肉，所用的部位是腩肉，在街市或超市也很容易買到，而煙肉的做法在醃肉中也是最簡單直接及最快有成果的。小編會分享一般的煙肉及意大利咸肉的做法，兩者做法也是一樣，但煙肉最後需要做煙燻，而意大利咸肉則需要風乾。

Well, we talk about bacon and pancetta (Italian bacon), both are using pork belly, it’s easy to find in supermarkets or butchers, and they are the most easiest way to enter homemade curing world. Bacon and pancetta curing method are the same, but after curing, bacon have to be smoked and pancetta have to be air-dried for a month.

首先需要選擇一舊長方或四方型的腩肉，讀者亦可以先購買一般超市可以容易買到的細小腩肉來嘗試，但製作時間也是一樣的。

First you need a large pork belly in square or rectangle shape, but if you wanna just try first, you can also buy a small one, but the curing time are the same.

**煙肉的做法 (Bacon) ：**

1. 先清洗一下，用紙印乾，然後把豬皮慢慢地用刀分開，豬皮可以留作其他用途的，不要棄掉；
Wash it and dry it using paper towel or cloth, cut out the lard using sharp knife carefully, keep the lard for other usage

2. 用小刀小心地去除腩肉底部的膜 (如有)
Cut out the sheet underneath of the belly of the pork (if necessary)

3. 先量度腩肉的重量，而鹽的分量是腩肉的2.5%
Measure the weight of the pork belly and prepare the salt around 2.5% of meat weight

4. 準備一個密封的袋或可用真空機幫助，把腩肉放入，然後加入鹽、黑胡椒、蔗糖、月桂葉、蜜糖或楓糖 (用於煙肉），以及乾杜松果(可以不加，視乎個人喜好)，把醃料平均地塗滿整舊腩肉，密封好袋口，一定要封好，不然醃料的汁液會留出的。
Prepare a vacuum bag or ziplock bag, put the pork belly in and add salt, black pepper, brown sugar, bay leaves, honey or maple syrup (bacon only) and jupiter berries (personal preference), mix all the seasonings well and cover the whole pork belly, vacuum it or zip it well (make sure no water can be escaped)

5. 然後放入雪櫃7天，但每天也是翻一次，最好按摩一下腩肉。
Put it into Refrigerator for 7 days and flip it over every day, better massage it too.

6. 醃肉7天後在雪櫃取出後，先在水喉下沖先及用手把醃料沖走，然後準備一個大碗，加入水及冰，把沖洗好的腩肉放入並浸水3小時。
Take it out after 7 days curing, wash it and get rid out all the seasonings under tape water, then prepare a large bowl, add water and ice and put the pork belly in for 3 hours

7. 浸好後可以取出並印乾水份，最後可以進行煙燻了。熱燻100°C，1小時，請不要離開，要一直保持這個溫度才可。
After 3 hours, take out and dry it using paper towel or cloth, and you can start smoking at 100°C for 1 hour, please keep in eye and maintain in constant temperature.

8. 煙燻好放涼後就可以切片存放
After Smoking, just cool down and you can cut into slice and keep it in refrigerator.

由於醃好的肉比較硬身，小編建議使用切肉機幫助，切成薄片。小編找了很久才找到這個非一般輕巧的小型切肉機，除了切肉外，也可切硬的鄉村包，真的很方便，當您時常也做自己不同的醃肉時，這真是個好幫手，這部切肉機比中國製造的還要便宜很多了：
Since after cured, bacon is quite hard, better use meat slicer to assist for cutting into thin slices. Since most of the meat slicer is bulky and require much space, finally, I found one that very compact and light, and the most important is cheaper alot than made in China one, you can also use it to slice for sourdough as well :

ritter Allesschneider E 16 mit ECO-Motor

**意大利咸肉的做法 (Pancetta) ：**

1. 先跟煙肉的醃法，及沖先步驟
Follow bacon curing method

2. 準備好紮肉的綿線，把腩肉卷好，依以下方法紮好
prepare a butcher string, roll it well and follow the below step to tie the knot well

3. 準備好綿袋或魚湯袋(小編用2個袋以防止蚊蟲在肉上產卵)，把袋掛在沒有陽光及比較潮濕的地方，例如：星盆附近，等待風乾一個月，切成粒就可以用來煮食了。最重要是注意風乾的時間，如果在香港，最好在深秋至初冬時候進行，因為溫度必須保持在10-18°C及濕度在60-80%進行，否則必須買來特製專用來做風乾熟成的雪櫃來控制其溫度及濕度，或者買來一般的酒櫃加以改裝可控制濕度來進行，不然就不可進行風乾，特別是在炎熱的天氣，這樣會容易滋生奪命細菌，請大家不要掉以輕心，食物安全是很重要的。
Prepare a cotton bag or soup bag (I’m using double soup bag to prevent any eggs from bugs and mosquitos), hang the bag in a place that moisture but out of sunlight. After a month, you can take it out, cut it in chunk and cook it. But it is very important about to proceed this in a right temperature and humidity, in Hong Kong, you can do it during late Autumn and early Winter, keep the temperature around 10-18℃ and humidity around 60-80%, if you can’t kepp it, I would strongly advice you to buy a dry aged chiller to control temperature and humidity or buy a wine chiller which modify it to control humidity to proceed the air dry process, otherwise, I don’t suggest you to make it, especially on hot weather, it is really easy to grow harmful bacterias that really kill youself, so please please take it seriously, food safety is really important.

下一篇待續。。。香腸

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煙燻機 (Food Smoker), 牛肉 (Beef), 醃製及煙燻 (Curing and Smoking)

自製醃肉及煙燻篇－煙燻牛肉 (HOMEMADE CURING AND SMOKING – Pastrami)

Posted on October 6, 2015 by 傑西

煙燻牛肉所用的是牛腩部份，小編好不容易地才找到一間高級超市有售，希望讀者可以比較容易找到吧。可是每次出外很費時，為了今次的示範，小編只在附近的超市買回來，雖然體積不適合用來做，但也分享製造過程給大家了解一下。

Pastrami is using beef brisket, it’s not easy for me to find, hope that you can find it nearby you. This time, luckily I found a small one nearby my living area, although it’s to small to make pastrami, but I still wanna share with you about the processing.

其實所有醃肉過程也是一樣的，只是調味有點不同而已。由於地方的限制及衛生問題，小編建議讀者使用乾醃的方式，由於肉類會慢慢出水，其後也會自然轉為水醃的。

All curing meats method are the same, just coat different seasonings on it only. Also, because it is limited place in Hong Kong and also talk about the food hygiene, I suggested you to make dry curing instead of brining since dry curing finally will turn to wet brining during processing.

做法：

1. 首先，買回來的牛腩先清洗，切去多肥肉及底部的薄膜
First, wash the beef brisket and cut out the fat and the sheet underneath

2. 把牛腩放入密封袋，加入鹽、蔗糖、黑胡椒、蒜粉、芫茜籽碎並平均地塗滿整件牛腩
Put the brisket into vacuum bag, add salt, brown sugar, black pepper, garlic powder and ground coriander seeds, and coat all the seasonings in the beef brisket equally

3. 把袋密封好，放入雪櫃醃製7天，每天也要翻一下讓醃製平均
seal and vacuum the bag and put it into refrigerator for 7 days and flip it over every day

4. 準備一個大碗，加入清水及小量冰塊，取出醃好的牛腩，在水喉下沖洗並用手把多餘的醃料刷走，放入碗內浸3小時
Prepare a big bowl, put some water and ice, take out the beef brisket from refrigerator, wash it under tape water and get out all the rubs, soak it in the water for 3 hours

5. 3小時後取出，印乾，並重新把黑胡椒碎、芫茜籽粉、芥辣粉、蔗糖、甜椒粉、蒜粉、洋蔥粉、少許油再次平均塗在肉上
Take out after 3 hours, dry it using paper towel or cloth, rub again with ground black pepper, coriander seed, mustard powder, brown sugar, paprika, garlic powder, online powder and oil.

6. 可進行冷燻，今次用乾燻方法 (如果讀者用小編這款煙燻機的話，先用錫紙放在底部，放入3湯匙木碎，另外再用錫紙包著油鍋，才把食物盤放上，所以當煙燻進行初時，先把通風氣孔開啟，當霧煙時，就可以把通風氣孔關閉) 60度，5-7小時，視乎讀者的牛腩大小。記得，做煙燻時不要走開，一定要監察住溫度，如果溫度過高，就要轉細火或關火一會，待溫度降回才開火繼續。
You can now smoke it for 60degree for 5-7 hours, but it’s depends on the size of your brisket, this time, mind one is very small, so I just took 45 minutes (If you are using the same smoker as mind, place the aluminum foil in the bottom and put 2 tablespoons wood chips at the centre, then use another aluminum foil to cover the drip pan and put on the top of the wood chips, place the food pan on the top afterwards, open the vent holes when begins, then completely close it when you see the smoke comes out) . Don’t forget, please monitoring the temperature while smoking, if temperature too high, turn down the heat or close the heat a while until temperature goes down the aforesaid temperature range, then open heat again to continue.

7. 放入密封袋並抽真空，最後進行低溫慢煮，65度，48小時就完成了。(視乎牛肉大小調整時間)
Vacuum seal the beef brisket and sous vide for 65 degree for 48 hours. (Depends on the size of pastrami, please adjust the time accordingly)

p.s. 由於我們沒有用到亞硝酸鹽，所以自家製的牛肉不會是超市所見到的粉紅色的。
 Since we didn't use sodium nitrites for our curing meat, so you can't see pink colour like factory one.

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煙燻機 (Food Smoker), 醃製及煙燻 (Curing and Smoking), 冷燻器 (Cold smoke Generator)

自製醃肉及煙燻篇－煙燻 (HOMEMADE CURING AND SMOKING – Smoking food)

Posted on September 24, 2015 by 傑西

之後幾篇的醃肉最後也是煙燻，為什麼？因為醃肉後是生的，除了魚類外，其他也不能直接食用，所以最後也要煮過或煙燻熟成食物才可。

We mentioned smoking after cured for the next few posts, why need so? since cured meat is still raw, it’s not cooked, cured meat just prevent bacteria growth on the meat, other than fish, other meats not prefer to eat raw, so better cook it or smoke it afterwards.

煙燻食物在西方國家比較普遍、多樣化及復雜，但中式煙燻卻簡單得多。

Smoked meat is more familiar in western countries, it’s more fun and complicated, but it’s just only one style for chinese smoking method.

西式煙燻有兩樣，熱燻及冷燻，乾燻及濕燻；熱燻溫度為100-130度，而冷燻為60-90度。我們在家一般只會做熱燻，因為溫度高而不會滋生細菌；但冷燻肉類需要比較專業的人員及地方才可進行，由於冷燻肉類時間很長，而細菌很喜歡於冷燻的溫度下迅速生長，所以我們在家進行冷燻肉類是很危險的，食用後可能致命，所以在此也特別提醒讀者，不要冒險進行冷燻肉類，有事發生，小編不負責的。但可以在家進行冷燻芝士、堅果、甜椒粉，這相對風險很低。

First talk about western one, there are two smoking method, hot smoke and cold smoke, dry smoking and wet smoking; hot smoke temperature around 100-130 degree and cold smoke around 60-90 degree. However, we suggested you to process hot smoke at home only since the temperature is high, it can killed bacteria; Alternatively, cold smoke meats require professional equipment and wide knowledge of techniques, cold smoke meats also require long time to process and the temperature of cold smoke meats caused bacteria growth rapidly during the time being, so it is very dangerous to do so at home, it will killed you. So once again, it is so important that don’t try to cold smoke meats at home, if any accident happened, I will not take any responsibility, none of my business at all. However, you can try to cold smoking cheese, nuts, paprika etc, this is relatively low risk.

乾燻為沒有帶水份的煙燻，主要也是用木碎或／及炭；而濕燻則會加酒精成份的飲品，增加其味道及帶給肉類水份。

Dry smoking means without any liquid, just use wood and/or coal; on the other hand, wet smoking will add some alcoholic drinks that flavouring and tendering the meats .

此外，在外國亦有一款叫沒有煙的煙燻，是一瓶煙燻液體，把液體用針筒直接入肉類內，味道出來就好想一般煙燻一樣，通常配合低溫慢煮或烤焗的烹調方法。其實這些液體真的從真正煙燻蒸餾出來的液體，方便一些煙燻爐的人也可以在家中享受到煙燻味道的食品。但工廠式的煙肉也是用這些液體用機械噴在豬肉表面上，所以讀者在超市買回來的煙肉也是生的。

In western countries, also have another method called smokeless meat, which is a liquid smoke, it is a concentrated smoke comes from real smoked wood in the water, it’s good for those people without smoker at home, you can find in high grade supermarket in Hong Kong, but I can found one flavour for sale only. This liquid smoke used to inject the liquid inside the meat, it will have smoked flavour, normally will use for sous vide and bake cooking method. However, liquid smoke also widely use in factory for bacon, they are just machine spray the liquid in the surface of pork belly, so what you buy from supermarket, the bacon is raw as well.

然而中式煙燻一般只是短暫進行，材料一般只是白飯、糖及茶葉，所以煙燻的味道是淡淡表面的。

Chinese smoke food just a temporary flavour since it’s smoke about 15 -20 minutes only, normally using cooked rice, sugar and tea leaves for smoking flavour.

近年也興起煙燻槍，由於煙燻槍只是一陣子的煙霧，所以味道一瞬間就會消失，這只是餐廳的小把戲而已。

Recently, smoking gun also popular in the market, it’s just a smoke cloud a very short time before serving the food, so there’s only a minutes flavour only, I can say it’s just a toy or show off for restaurant.

好多人以為做煙燻一定要有燒烤爐及在屋外才可，但其實我們在家也可以做煙燻的，只是沒有燒烤功能而已，煙燻出來的食物不會黑黑的；亦因如此，如進行濕燻，也沒有燒焦效果，所以需要放入焗爐烤至脆皮。在外國煙燻是很普通的，所以他們也有在室內專用的煙燻鍋，只需要放在爐具上加熱就可以了，還沒有太多的煙霧，很安全的。

Many people think that smoking food must process in outdoor with kettle grill or desktop smoker, but it is not, you can do it using smoked meat without grilling, so the meat not comes out with black colour only, if so, if you are doing wet smoking, it will not becomes crispy skin, better put to the oven for roasting it until skin turn brown . Smoked meat is very popular in other countries, so they have stove top smoker for sale, it’s not really messy but safe.

室內煙燻機：

Nordic Ware 365 Indoor/Outdoor Kettle Smoker

冷燻器：

Jaeger-Sparbrand aus Edelstahl V2A, bis 20 Stunden Kaltrauch, Kaltraucherzeuger, Cold Smoke Generator, Food Smoker, Meat Smoker, für Grills, BBQ, Räucheröfen, Made in Germany. Das hier abgebildete Räuchermehl, Teelicht und Mini-Lötbrenner gehört nicht zum Lieferumfang. In Deutschland gefertigt und für die Fa. Jaeger-Versand bereits 1995 entwickelt !!! Sie kaufen direkt beim Hersteller. Mit ausführlicher deutscher Anleitung !!!!

在外國，用來煙燻的物料是木頭或木碎，而味道選擇亦很多，用這個爐頭式煙燻鍋是用木碎的，買回來會跟兩款不同的木碎，小編會簡單說說比較普遍的木材味道及用於什麼肉類，那可以給讀者參考購買自己喜歡的味道：

There are many kinds of woods for smoking in western countries, for this stove top smoker, we are using wood chips, not the whole wood and come with 2 common wood chips in the box. Just explain the most popular woods below that you can reference for and select your favourite flavour for smoking of your meats.

木材種類 Wood Type	煙燻味道 Smoky Characteristics	適合的肉類 Good Paired with
蘋果木 Apple wood	清淡帶果香味 Mild and fruity	豬肉、紅肉鳥類 (乳鴿、鴨等)及芝士 Hams, game birds and cheese
榿木 Alder wood	清淡但細膩 Mild and delicate	魚及家禽 Fish and poultry
櫻桃木 Cherry Wood	清淡帶果甜 Mild, sweet and fruity	鴨肉及羊肉 Duck and venison
橡木 Oak wood	豐富的濃味帶辣 Strong, rich and pungent	牛肉、豬肉及羊肉 Beef, pork and venison
胡桃木 Hickory wood	超濃味帶苦 Strong, robust and bitter	牛肉 Beef

Wood Smoking Chips Variety Gift Set – Set of 8 Pints (Oak, Apple, Cherry, Pecan, Maple, Bourbon, Hickory, Mesquite)

apple wood smoked baby ribs — smoked baby ribs

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醃製及煙燻 (Curing and Smoking)

自製醃肉及煙燻篇－簡述 (HOMEMADE CURING AND SMOKING － BRIEFING）

Posted on September 16, 2015 by 傑西

已說了最基本的麵食及包，那當然要肉類配搭才完美。但在香港很多人也只會買來腸仔、午餐肉等等去吃，那實在太不健康。

We talk about pasta and bread in earlier posts, but better having it with some curing meats, then more perfect, right? In Hong Kong, many people will eat with chicken sausage or spam, etc, it really unhealthy meal.

其實很多人對醃肉不健康有一個錯誤的觀念，當然，你在超市買回來的一定不健康，因為在醃製的時候，工廠為了保持肉類的保鮮期會加大鹽的分量，又加入亞硝酸鹽以確保肉類的顏色，再加入人做調味劑，所以不論是包裝或超市內的熟食切肉也是一樣不健康的。

Curing meats are unhealthy food in most of the people’s mindset, if you buy from supermarket, yes, of course, it is unhealthy, it’s because all factories are added large amount of salt for curing meat that can extend it’s freshness, and also add sodium nitrite (pink salt) to ensure the colour of the meat and artificial flavourings. No matter package one or from Deli department.

在外國其實很多人也會自製醃肉，不會在超市買現成肉。可能你會說，外國的屋這麼大，當然可以自己做吧！但說真的，只要有雪櫃，你也可以自己做，不需要太多地方。

In fact, there are many people made their own cured meats in foreign countries, not prefer to buy in supermarket. Well, maybe you will think that they have a big house, of course they can do it. However, just use some space for your refrigerator can do so.

其實做醃肉很簡單，只是要比較耐心地去等待，有些肉類可以醃好就直接享用，但大部份醃肉後也需要煙燻、蒸或煮過才能吃；之後幾篇小編會逐一講解。

Actually curing is very easy, but you have to be patient for waiting the curing occurred. You can enjoy it after cured for some meats, but most of the meats have to do smoking, steam or cook afterwards, I will deeply talk in individual posts later.

醃肉有兩種方法：乾醃及水醃。乾醃只是用粗鹽及／或其他調味料直接塗在肉上；而水醃則利用一鍋水，加入粗鹽及其他調味料，把肉浸在調好味的鹽水內。兩者也一樣效果的。

There are two curing methods : dry cure and wet cure (brine)。Dry cure can use salt and/or with other flavourings; wet cure (brine) require to use a warm water with salt and other flavourings, but both are the same results at the end.

講到醃肉的鹽，在外國普遍公認一個品牌用來醃肉是最好效果的，在香港大型超市也可容易買到，一盒HK$4x可以用好多次了。而醃肉用的糖只會用蔗糖來做的

About the curing salt, the best is kosher salt, you can easy to find in high grade supermarket in Hong Kong, only HK$4x, but can use many times. On the other hand, we only use brown sugar or raw sugar for curing.

有兩點很重要的，讀者一定要緊記。第一、在醃肉前要徹底清潔雙手、所有用具及地方以確保衛生。第二、就算讀者是餐廳老闆也一樣，自製醃肉是不能出售或給客人享用，除非你的餐廳或地方領有"工廠製造牌照"，否則只可供個人或家人/朋友分享之用途。

There are two very important points that you have to aware of. First, clean your hands,  all the equipments and utensils throughly before process curing to make sure the food hygiene.  Secondly, even you are operating a restaurant, unless you have the "Food Factory Licence", otherwise, all homemade meats not allow for sale or provide in your restaurant, only can be enjoy the food yourself and/or share among families and friends.

煙肉的做法 (Bacon) ：

意大利咸肉的做法 (Pancetta) ：

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**煙肉的做法 (Bacon) ：**

**意大利咸肉的做法 (Pancetta) ：**

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